Find all the latest fashion news in a daily live-feed, including curated Daily Digest picks, breaking news, business analysis and designer interviews. The Biggest Fashion News Stories of 2020 â So Far The coronavirus pandemic and the Black Lives Matter movement have become the year's top stories. They Are Wearing: Snow Day Style in New York City. But the experience prompted him to be more explicit about the issues he supports. One of the Imperial War Museum’s civilian siren suits boasts puffed shoulders, bell-bottom cuffs, piping decoration and a natty hood. We’ve had a lot more interest this year, definitely, and more of an understanding of what we’ve been trying to do for the last three years. “It’s been really beneficial for us as we’re growing.”. It’s incredibly important that this thought trickles down through all levels of the market.” And, if spending more on a single item when incomes are low seems counter-intuitive, think again: “Less disposable income means less money to throw away on clothing each season. “It wasn’t the first time a fashion show was disrupted by a protester, but it was the first time that people were not sure what they’d seen,” he remarked. “I believe in having difficult conversations with those who might not agree with you and reaching across the aisle,” he said. Insider spoke with stylists to round up the best and worst fashion trends of 2020, so far. Digital campaigns such as this one, featuring a CGI version of Kendall Jenner, are on the rise (Credit: Kendall Jenner/ Burberry), But what of this new decade? Fashion accounts for 8% of global greenhouse-gas emissions, more than international flights and maritime shipping put together, according to Barclays. ... Fall 2020 Collection. I want to be a figurehead in the industry,” said the designer, who was born in Rockford, Ill., of Ghanaian parents. “Fashion is a potent visual marker of our times,” says Caroline Stevenson, head of cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion. The same can be said of Virgil Abloh, who in 2018 was named men’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton, becoming one of the highest-profile Black designers in the industry. Dumbgood’s face masks featuring phrases such as “I know too much about life to have any optimism” speak directly to the streetwear brand’s Gen Z followers. Obviously, I have a very strong opinion. The 79-year-old Nygard awaited an appearance in a Winnipeg courtroom after his Monday, Dec. 14, 2020, arrest in Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada by Canadian authorities at the request ⦠Ruth Ossai / Courtesy of Bethany Williams. Buttery, colourful leather. We are in a capitalist world, and it’s not easy to change,” she reflected. When the world moved out of World War Two in the 1950s, a new silhouette emerged, as embodied by Christian Dior’s New Look: “Fitted jackets, padded hips, wasp-like waist and A-line skirts,” says Stevenson. Amy Sussman/Courtesy of BBMA2020. The e-commerce company ⦠Among the brands that have felt the heat this year are Boohoo, which was rocked by a scandal over sweatshop working conditions and dodgy financial practices within its British supply chain; Everlane, which was accused by former employees of union-busting, and Reformation, which faced allegations of racism that led to the departure of founder Yael Aflalo in June. What Have The Rich Been Up To During the Pandemic? Lizzo There’s always a risk, but there are much bigger rewards, unless it’s badly executed, or it’s not genuinely done,” said Hardy. Each collection focuses on the work of a charity, which receives 20 percent of the profits from the sale of the clothes. By subscribing, you agree to our You need to make sure that everyone is aligned,” he said. Voices. After centuries in which everyone pretty much dressed the same, young people finally got wardrobes of their own – and mined all the revolutionary potential of Eastern influences, of prints and patterns and of army-and-navy surplus clothing stores. It shows their intention and shows how they were thinking in 2017, which is when I was having that conversation. Abloh subsequently clarified that he had in fact donated $20,500 to bail funds and other causes related to the protest movement, which started after the police killing of George Floyd in May. As it turned out, the protester was a member of climate action group Extinction Rebellion, which had previously disrupted London Fashion Week with a series of demonstrations. “I want to keep the flame going, and that’s where my momentum comes from.”, Gurung also thinks it’s important to speak out, at the risk of courting haters. “That’s the challenge with any designer: you’re making a product and you don’t want to alienate your customer, but then you have to feel good about who’s consuming your world. “What we’re trying to design here is system change, not new clothes,” Raeburn told Vogue on its launch. The unseen underside of fast fashion comes at the expense of laborers. ... and occasionally bought, in 2020 tells the story of a year like no other This, along with the understanding that we might actually have enough out there already to keep ourselves decked out for decades, has led to a resurgence of interest in making and mending; the wartime cabinets seem to have got it spot on. This year, Williams launched the Emergency Designer Network with fellow designers Holly Fulton, Cozette McCreary and Phoebe English, in response to a shortage of personal protective equipment in U.K. hospitals. “Trend analysis of any given era will reveal society’s values and aspirations.”, - The story of the ‘queen of flowers’. Yeezy Season 8: Fall 2020. A further 50 percent said they would pick companies that find ways to help their local communities, and 49 percent stated they would favor brands that prove that they treat their employees well. “Everyday garments will become more utilitarian, making space for creative digital collections that allow people to continuously reinvent their looks in ways that are less wasteful and harmful to the environment. Because if you don’t, you’re going to get exposed to social backlash, and there is a risk of a boomerang effect,” Husson warned. The most important news ⦠How Fashion Ramped Up Activism in 2020 Fashion, luxury and beauty brands took a stance on social issues in response to global upheaval. Fashion. The fashion industry needs to fundamentally change in order to mitigate the environmental impact of fast fashion, experts have said. “Unconscious consumption is falling out of fashion. They want to understand how they contribute to the broader customer experience, and more importantly, they want to give meaning to their daily jobs,” Husson added. Read about our approach to external linking. I want to lead by example. Harriet Hall The Proud Boys have a new uniform ... How âVOTEâ merch became the true winner of the US 2020 election. Getty Images. Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women’s collections at Dior, frequently uses her runway as a platform for feminist slogans, such as “Patriarchy = Repression.” Was this a way to question the meaning of the fashion system during the coronavirus pandemic? The designer recently moved her studio into Making for Change’s new fashion training and manufacturing unit in east London. Vests, crochet garments, and disco collars ⦠Without the distractions that come with everyday life and routine, it was impossible to look away from the crises being experienced all over the world. “If they don’t do that, they are not fulfilling their purpose.”, Bethany Williams RTW Spring 2021 “There’s definitely been an increased awareness around conscious consumption,” agrees Tom Berry, director of sustainability for online luxury platform Farfetch. I don’t think it’s just about making money,” Siriano added. Designers are also working on this. I feel like people are ready to perceive this, whereas before I didn’t think that was the case,” she said. As we look forward to 2021 with a new hope, we also look back with all humility at the things 2020 taught us in the terms of life, sustainability and subtle fashion. And just as there is space for puffed shoulders while the bombs drop, there’s also space for humour. “At an individual level, the ability to express yourself – or at a collective level the ability to enable connection and belonging – is enabled by fashion. It’s not because it’s the mood of the day today,” he said. “Fashion still plays a key role in society, both functionally and culturally,” he continues. No matter how big or small a brand, there are levers you can pull to ensure you are contributing to the larger conversation,” Gurung noted. “That’s where I come from. “Fashion is an industry full of influential creatives with large platforms, and I believe it is our responsibility to use these spaces to make a positive change in the world, which includes speaking out against injustices, taking a stand, and making marginalized people feel seen and heard,” he added. “If you are just practicing activism in spaces that make you comfortable, you will not make the same impact, and that is a bigger concern.”. The difficulty, she added, is how to move toward a more sustainable pace of production while preserving the thousands of jobs along the fashion supply chain. Though the industry-wide drive to mobilize voters did not explicitly take sides, it was widely seen as supporting Joe Biden’s presidential campaign. The cover of The Beatles’ 1967 album Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Bandremains iconic. Date December 5, 2020 Style. Every definition relates to the big picture: that fashion needs to ⦠“Gen Z were the first to ask the question, ‘What more can a brand bring to society?’ They no longer believe in politics or religion, but they recognize that brands and companies have a role to play that previously, they were not expected to play,” she said. Sure, classic and feminine is still cool, but for 2020, the floral print is getting a ⦠Get today's Fashion News, Womens Clothing, Style, Lifestyle News, Fashion Designer Articles, Fashion Accessory, Woman Clothing & Videos at WSJ.com. “I don’t think I would be able to sleep at night if I felt like I was not saying what I want to say.”. The Los Angeles Apparel facility has produced more than 100,000 non-medical masks. “From shopping Black-owned businesses to Michelle Obama’s famous ‘Vote’ necklace, clothes and accessories expressed views on social and political issues.”, View Gallery By Maddison Glendinning. Protect. “But I would not recommend for brands to have contradictory stances in different geographic zones in order to satisfy everyone,” he said. Christian Siriano, who has been outspoken on issues ranging from LGBTQ rights to body positivity, was among the designers encouraging people to vote in the U.S. election, showing a floor-length gown printed with a graphic “vote” pattern — with a matching face mask — as part of his spring 2021 collection. “It’s responsible design.” He’d be delighted with youngsters Kevin Germanier and Maddie Williams, and of initiatives such as the Redress Design Award, all developing new business models that repurpose and reuse old clothing. The Off-White founder has used the platform to promote a message of diversity and inclusion, starting with his first Vuitton show, staged on a rainbow-colored catwalk. Related Gallery “Digital Fashion Weeks are already emerging, welcoming larger audiences and virtual participation,” says Buller. “We’ve taken on sample machinists and in-house people that are part of the Making for Change community, so it filters down into our workforce,” Williams said. By Odessa Paloma Parker. Forecasters have seen an upswing in survivalist clothing; modular designs that can adapt to different climates and protect their wearer. That’s why it has emerged as a strong trend.”. Here are the 10 fashion-related things that happened in 2020. “People will continue to be creative with clothing that prioritises protection in physical settings – and with digital garments and filters in digital spaces.” Wharry is also fascinated by digital’s possibilities: “Initiatives such as the latest Burberry campaign with Kendall Jenner [the model shot a series of 360 degree photographs of herself before they were rendered, via CGI technology and motion capture, into a digital replica of herself] indicate a greater adoption of how digital fashion could allow us to express ourselves through digital skins.”. December 18, 2020 We also realized how closely tied we all are to one another,” he said. Welcome to 2020 â everyone has a voice and consumers arenât afraid to use theirs. “For me, feminism is super important. British menswear brand Connolly invited Portobello Market vintage-clothing stall owner and stylist, Frank Akinsete, to upcycle pieces from previous collections, highlighting the creativity of Akinsete and his fellow market-stall holders, in a moving photo series. “It’s just gotten a bit crazy for us business-wise. In efforts to conserve precious materials for the war effort, single-breasted suits replaced double-breasted; trouser turn-ups were abolished – much to the annoyance of their male wearers. London-based designer Bethany Williams has incorporated a social purpose into every aspect of her three-year-old brand. The only thing that I realized within the scope of the miscommunication is that the scale that I exist on has grown considerably in a short amount of time, so just factually, there’s a lot of new people to my practice that didn’t know me two years ago,” he said. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the parent company of Dior and Louis Vuitton, was among the first major luxury groups to give their creative directors the freedom to speak about issues like racism and misogyny. • Booth Moore, clock • David Moin. The finale of his fall 2017 show featured models in T-shirts with slogans such as “The Future Is Female” and “Break Down Walls,” while his 10th anniversary show explored American identity, with models wearing beauty pageant sashes that said: “Who Gets to Be American?”. The world has been in trouble before; both World Wars, for example, led to a flurry of measures designed to make clothing as practical – and as thrifty – as possible. The latest breaking news, ... fashion. But speaking out is not without pitfalls, especially when it comes to politics. “The New Look represented a new image of prosperity.”. And if it does survive, what form will it take? Stylist and stall-holder Frank Akinsete has collaborated with Connolly to upcycle vintage pieces (Credit: Connolly). • Mimosa Spencer. Amazon's foray into luxury fashion is the latest blow this year to U.S. department stores, which have been hit especially hard by the coronavirus pandemic.. 2020 has unarguably been one of the most challenging years in living memory, with countless experts and commentators dedicating themselves to analysing our current upheaval. “I would have liked to meet her, because I’m very interested in her point of view. “But what we did see was that those who already had strong commitments reinforced this positioning. Experts love trends like boxy silhouettes and low, 1990s-inspired heels. © Copyright 2020 - Penske Media Corporation, clock Please fill out this field with valid email address. Credit Gio Staiano/Nowfashion. A protester at the Dior spring 2021 show. “For me, 2020 is a hyper year, but in 2030, I will be doing the exact same thing, because it’s been embedded in my existence since I was born in 1980. “It really matters to the point that the value of the brand could be destroyed if you don’t pay attention to this.”. By Layla Ilchi on August 8, 2020 This won’t go away, but the industry does need to live up to its responsibilities, and be part of creating a more positive future.” Buller’s hopes are high. Sustainable fashion was really hitting its stride at the end of 2019, with more brands and consumers actively involved in trying to fix one of the fashion ⦠“The fact that fashion, beauty and luxury are becoming politicized, and having to take a stance on a number of urgent social issues, will reinforce the need for brands to have a multilateral positioning, in other words, to adapt their messaging and their actions to regional specificities that are no longer just cultural,” the IFM professor said. Abloh also found himself in hot water for criticizing the looting of some stores following BLM protests in Los Angeles and posting a receipt for a $50 donation to Fempower, an artist collective raising funds to bail Black women out of jail. “Already, we’re seeing garments that reflect these heightened concerns. Pared-down lines characterise design in times of trouble; few cultures are going to start embracing extravagance when the chips are down – except, apparently, during the 1960s, a tumultuous decade marked by the civil-rights movement, anti-war protests, political assassinations and the emerging ‘generation gap’. Her clothes, which are made using recycled materials, are produced by Making for Change, a program cofounded by the London College of Fashion that helps to train female prisoners, and San Patrignano, a drug rehabilitation community in Italy. âTrend analysis of any given era will ⦠Diesel’s Upfreshing collection, for example, features an ‘antibacterial’ coating.”. Speaking two months later, Chiuri appeared to bear no grudge against the gate-crasher. Brunette The Label Teams Up With Chatters + More Fashion News To Know. “It’s increasingly about closing the gap between brand, customer and employee experiences. She cites Nike’s ISPA as an example of imaginative response: “Improvise. Our priorities have shifted to demand maximum comfort. Employees too strive for meaning. Defiance is rife in this new world. Fashion trends, the most potent driver of speed in the industry, look set to come under some serious scrutiny. “So it’s definitely a balancing act.”, Brands Answer Tumultuous Election Year With Merch and Initiatives, The Black Lives Matter Movement: Change Comes to Beauty, Face Masks: The New Global Must-Have Accessory, clock “In response to this need for radical transparency and these new expectations, brands have been required to engage with activists.”, That has been accentuated by the dramatic events of 2020. I’ve just been more vocal and present,” he continued. Latest fashion trends, inside scoop on fashion shows, and news on designers, textiles, clothing, and couture markets. âFashion is a potent visual marker of our times,â says Caroline Stevenson, head of cultural and historical studies at London College of Fashion. “We’ve also seen significant interest in the pre-owned market, both in terms of consumers wanting to buy pre-owned products but also using services that help them sell unused items,” agrees Berry. A survey of European consumers conducted by market research company Forrester in May found that after their experience during the COVID-19 pandemic, 51 percent of respondents said they will go out of their way in the next 12 to 24 months to buy from brands that are committed to reducing their impact on the environment. It was and is still the uphill battle that I face, and I want the younger generation to have an easier path to do the same type of work that I do.”. Meanwhile, the need for social distancing has found an unusual ally: digitisation. And yet, there are still few better places to examine cultural change than fashion. “The challenge is to move from storytelling to story-making, and to simply do what you say, or as my American colleagues often say, to walk the talk. “You couldn’t tell if it was part of the show or not,” Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, commented afterward. Michael Buckner/WWD, “Brands that weren’t doing this kind of thing before did not suddenly switch strategy in 2020,” said Simmenauer. Don't miss the top fashion industry news breaking this week. Paria Farzeneh's recent spring/ summer 2021 presentation for London Fashion Week took place in a field outside the city (Credit: Getty Images). Scavenge. ... Canadian Designer Aurora James is Honoured at The Fashion Awards 2020. 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